How to read a credit report

How to read a credit report
Uriel Manseau

CTO, Sphera Credit

B.Eng., M.Sc. Applied Mathematics

Reviewed by Joseph Edelmann, CEO, Sphera Credit

11 min read

How do you read a credit report?

Read a credit report in four passes: confirm the identifying information is yours, check that every account listed is one you opened, decode the rating code and dates on each account, then compare what you find against the other bureau's copy. Reading in that order matters, because an unfamiliar address near the top is often the first sign that someone else's file has been merged into yours, and that single finding changes how you read everything below it.

A credit report is a summary of how you have used credit, built by a credit bureau from what your lenders send in each month. Canada has two: Equifax Canada and TransUnion Canada. Both hold a separate file on you, both build it from whichever lenders choose to report to them, and neither one decides whether you get approved. The lender makes that decision using the report as an input.

The report also does not contain your credit score. The score is calculated from the file at the moment someone requests it, which is why the number in a free app can differ from the number a mortgage officer quotes you on the same afternoon. If you want the score rather than the document, how to check your credit score covers the app-by-app differences, and how a credit rating is calculated explains how the entries below roll up into a three-digit number.

Two habits make the rest of this page easier to apply:

  • Pull both bureaus. A lender may report to only one. An account missing from Equifax is not necessarily missing from TransUnion.
  • Pull the full disclosure, not the app summary. The free score apps show a simplified view. The payment-profile tables and the date fields that this page decodes only appear on the full report. How to check your credit rating for free covers which routes return the complete document.

What is on a Canadian credit report, section by section?

A Canadian credit report has five sections: identifying information, trade lines, public records and registered items, collections and banking items, and inquiries. The FCAC publishes the full field list, and the two bureaus present the same five groups under slightly different headings (FCAC).

SectionWhat it holdsWhat to check
Identifying informationName, date of birth, current and previous addresses and phone numbers, SIN, driver's licence number, current and previous employers and job titlesEvery address and employer is genuinely yours
Trade linesOne entry per credit card, loan, line of credit, mortgage, and often phone, internet and utility accountsEvery account is one you opened, with the right limit
Public records and registered itemsBankruptcies, consumer proposals, court judgments related to credit, liens such as a registered interest in a financed carEach entry matches a real event, with the right date
Collections and banking itemsDebts sent to a collection agency, non-sufficient funds payments, bad cheques, accounts closed for money owing or fraudYou recognise the original creditor behind each collection
InquiriesEvery lender or organisation that requested your file, plus your own requestsYou recognise each hard inquiry

Two things are deliberately absent. Your report carries no income, no savings balances, no medical history, no criminal record, and no information about your race, religion or political affiliation. And cash purchases never appear, however large, because no lender was involved to report them.

The bureaus refresh the file at least monthly, and each lender reports on its own cycle. That is why a balance you paid off last week can still show as outstanding: the trade line is showing the balance as of the last date that lender reported, not today.

How do you decode a single trade line?

Every trade line carries the same dozen fields, and four of them do almost all the work: the rating code, the credit limit, the balance, and the date of last activity. Most guides stop at the rating code. The example below walks one account across all of its fields, using the labels the Canadian bureaus actually print.

FieldExample valueWhat it tells you
CreditorBank credit cardWhich lender is reporting the account
Account typeR (revolving)R revolving, I instalment, O open, M mortgage
Rating10 to 9 payment status, described in the next table
Date opened03/2018Feeds the length of your credit history
High credit$4,820The largest balance this account has ever carried
Credit limit$6,000The denominator when a lender calculates utilisation
Balance$1,140The numerator, so this line reports 19% utilisation
Past due$0Any amount above zero is an active delinquency
Payment amount$75The scheduled minimum for the reported period
Date of last activity07/2026The date that starts the purge clock on this account
Date reported08/2026How current the entry is, and how fresh the balance is
Months reviewed84How many months of history the lender has supplied
Previous high rate2, in 04/2025The worst rating ever recorded on this account

Read the account type and rating together as a two-character code. The letter is the kind of credit and the number is the payment status, so a credit card paid on time reports as R1 and a car loan paid 45 days late reports as I2.

CodeMeaning
0Approved but too new to rate
1Paid within 30 days of the due date, as agreed
2Paid 31 to 59 days late
3Paid 60 to 89 days late
4Paid 90 to 119 days late
5More than 120 days late, not yet written off
7Being repaid under a debt-management arrangement, such as a consumer proposal or credit counselling
8Repossession
9Written off as bad debt, sent to collections, or included in a bankruptcy

A 6 is defined in the scale but almost never appears in practice. For what an R7 or R9 does to a mortgage application specifically, see can you get a mortgage with an R7 credit rating.

Three fields on that first table deserve more attention than they usually get:

  • Previous high rate. The rating field shows today's status. Previous high rate shows the worst status ever recorded, and Equifax keeps it for 6 years even after you bring the account current (Equifax Canada). An account showing R1 today can still be carrying a visible R2 from last year.
  • Date of last activity. This is the field that decides when the entry disappears, and it is the one readers most often misread as the date they paid the account off.
  • High credit versus credit limit. On accounts with no formal limit, the bureau may use high credit as a stand-in when calculating utilisation, so a large one-off purchase can quietly reset how full the account looks.

How long does each item stay on your report?

Most negative entries fall off a Canadian credit report after six years, but the exact lifespan depends on the item, on the bureau, and in the case of bankruptcies and judgments on your province. The two bureaus publish their own schedules, and those schedules disagree on four common entry types.

Maximum retention on a Canadian credit report by bureau: closed account paid as agreed 6 years at Equifax against 20 at TransUnion, hard inquiry 3 against 6, P.E.I. judgment 6 against 10, Ontario bankruptcy 6 against 7, second bankruptcy 14 at both

Source: Equifax Canada, "How Long Does Information Stay on Your Credit Report?"; TransUnion Canada, Frequently Asked Credit Questions. Both read August 20, 2026.

ItemEquifax CanadaTransUnion CanadaClock starts from
Closed account paid as agreed6 years20 yearsDate reported closed (Equifax), last date of activity (TransUnion)
Late payment6 years6 yearsDate reported (Equifax), first delinquency (TransUnion)
Collection or charged-off account6 years6 yearsFirst delinquency with the original creditor
Consumer proposal3 years after you finish paying, or 6 years from filing, whichever comes first3 years after you satisfy it, or 6 years after default, whichever comes firstCompletion, or filing and default
Credit counselling or orderly payment of debtNot published separately2 years after the program is satisfied, or 6 years after default, whichever comes firstCompletion, or default
First bankruptcy6 years, or 7 years from filing if never discharged6 years in B.C., Y.T., N.W.T., Nu., Alta., Sask., Man., N.S., N.B.; 7 years in Ont., Que., P.E.I., N.L.Date of discharge
Second and later bankruptcies14 years14 yearsEach discharge date
Judgment6 years6 years in B.C., Y.T., N.W.T., Nu., Alta., Sask., Man., N.S., N.B.; 7 years in Ont., Que., N.L.; 10 years in P.E.I.Date of judgment
Secured loan or registered item6 yearsNot published separatelyDate filed
NSF payment or returned cheque6 yearsNot published separatelyDate reported
Hard inquiry3 years6 yearsDate of the inquiry
Account review inquiryNot disclosed to other lenders1 year, or 2 years in QuebecDate of the inquiry
Consumer statementNot published separately6 yearsDate posted

Two consequences follow directly from that table, and both change how you read your own file.

Your two reports are supposed to disagree. A card you closed in good standing in 2012 has already left Equifax and will sit on your TransUnion file until 2032. A mortgage rate-shopping trip from four years ago has left Equifax and is still visible at TransUnion. When the thinner report looks cleaner, that is a retention rule doing its job, and disputing the entry on the fuller report will not remove it.

Paying a collection does not remove it. Equifax states the position plainly: if you pay a collection account before the six years are up, the entry remains, though it may weigh less on your score (Equifax Canada). The clock runs from the date you first went delinquent with the original creditor, so paying neither restarts it nor shortens it. Anyone offering to have a paid collection deleted early is describing something the bureaus do not do.

The same logic applies to the date of last activity on an ordinary account. It is an activity marker, not a settlement date, and it is what the purge schedule reads.

What should you check on every review, and what is worth disputing?

Check the four things that are most often wrong and most costly when they are: addresses you do not recognise, accounts you did not open, ratings worse than your records support, and hard inquiries you did not authorise. Everything else on the report is worth reading once and worth disputing only when you can name the specific fact that is untrue.

Work through the file in this order and write down what you find before deciding what to do about it:

  1. Identifying information. An unfamiliar address or employer suggests either a stale record or a mixed file, where someone with a similar name and SIN has been merged into yours.
  2. Trade lines you do not recognise. An account you never opened is the clearest fraud signal on the report, and it is the one to act on immediately.
  3. Limits and balances. A limit reported lower than your actual limit inflates your utilisation on that line, which quietly costs you score for no reason.
  4. Ratings and previous high rate. Match each rating against your own payment records. A rating worse than your records support is disputable; a rating you earned is not.
  5. Collections and public records. These carry the most weight, so verify the original creditor, the amount, and the date of first delinquency on each.
  6. Hard inquiries. An inquiry you did not authorise means an application was made in your name.

Then triage what you found. The distinction that saves the most wasted effort is between a factual error and a retention difference:

  • Dispute it when a specific fact is wrong: an account that is not yours, a limit or balance that never matched reality, a rating that contradicts your records, a bankruptcy or judgment with the wrong date, an inquiry you did not authorise.
  • Leave it when the entry is accurate and simply older or newer than you expected, or when it appears on one bureau and not the other. That is the retention schedule, and disputing it wastes a cycle.

File the dispute with the bureau carrying the entry, and with both if both carry it. Each bureau contacts the lender to verify what it reported and typically completes the investigation within about 30 days (FCAC). If the investigation confirms the entry but the circumstances matter, both bureaus let you attach a short consumer statement to your file, which stays on the record for six years and which any lender reading the report will see.

One last framing worth carrying into the next review. A report that reads well is mostly a report with nothing on it that should not be there. Building a good file takes years of on-time payments and patient account aging, and none of that can be rushed. Removing an entry that was never yours takes about a month, and it is the only fast improvement the system genuinely allows. That is the strongest argument for reading the document rather than checking the number. For what moves the number once the file is clean, see why did my credit score drop.

Frequently asked questions

A credit report is a summary of how you have used credit, assembled by a credit bureau from what your lenders report each month. It lists your identifying information, every credit account a lender has reported, public records such as bankruptcies and judgments, collections, and a log of who has looked at your file (FCAC). It does not contain your income, your savings, your medical history, or your criminal record.

Sources

  1. Financial Consumer Agency of Canada: Credit report and score basicsFCAC (Government of Canada) (checked 2026-08-20)
  2. Equifax Canada: How long does information stay on your credit report?Equifax Canada (checked 2026-08-20)
  3. TransUnion Canada: Frequently asked credit questionsTransUnion Canada (checked 2026-08-20)
  4. Financial Consumer Agency of Canada: How long information stays on your credit reportFCAC (Government of Canada) (checked 2026-08-20)
  5. Financial Consumer Agency of Canada: Checking your credit report for errors and fraudFCAC (Government of Canada) (checked 2026-08-20)
  6. Financial Consumer Agency of Canada: Getting your credit report and credit scoreFCAC (Government of Canada) (checked 2026-08-20)

Educational disclaimer

Educational content only. This is not financial advice. Consult a licensed professional for guidance specific to your situation.